Eat, Pray, Love - A Tour of Sicily & Rome

I suppose along with age comes wisdom and maturity. We realized a long time ago that "stuff" to collect was not as important to us as the gifts of time and experiences. So as Mr. Goodin's birthday approached, we decided to make a trip to Italy to not only celebrate his birthday but to visit family that just happened to be living in Sicily (I know, I know...lucky us). After we finally figured out how to get there, I was still stuck on what to give him as a birthday present. Then it dawned on me like a brilliant flash of an idea. Early in our dating days, I decided to take a train ride up the east coast to visit my Mom for Christmas. At the time, I was reading Eat, Pray, Love. It was my companion book that spoke to my soul. Her life, her travels...especially her trek through Italy. I remember getting a text my message from my then boyfriend asking me what I was doing. I snapped a photo of my book. He was amused but it started a trend. I was hip long before Instagram. However, this distant memory was the inspiration to our trip to Italy....it would be the Eat, Pray, Love tour. I had a few things up my sleeve that I was sure would be memorable. We arrived in Sicily late in the day. Some sandwiches and a good nights sleep and we would be good to go in the morning....my plan was about to be enacted.

Day 2: Eat in Taormina
So back to my flash of brilliance for my birthday surprise. A couple of weeks prior to our trip, I did a little Internet searching an discovered culinary holidays in Italy. After conferring with mi familia, we decided on an cooking class excursion to Taormina...about an hours drive away. Everyone was in on the plan except for him. I finally revealed my surprise to my husband who was happy to learn what we were doing. We met the chef promptly at 9 am at the arches to the coastal city. After brief introductions, we headed to the local fishery and market. Chef Massimo spent a good hour discussing the art of picking fresh produce and fish. He purchased all the goods and for the next 4 hours we became his sous chefs.

We headed back to the restaurant and our private cooking class commenced. He was charming and relaxed, but he was a good teacher. We made fresh pasta to start, olive cappanade, blood orange salad, stuffed anchovies, fresh calamari, sea bass, eel filets...six courses in total.

We learned techniques, we laughed and we squirmed at the thought of some of the fish prep....but all in all it was a fantastic experience. As good as we were as students, we were much better eaters. To the victors goes the spoils. To end our day in Taormina, we toured the streets and went to the Theater of the Greek to look at the vistas of the beautiful waters surrounding Sicily.

Day 3: Pray in Palermo
We decided to branch out a little, but this was going to require a sense of adventure and a train ticket. We were dropped off at the train station at 7am for our three hour ride to Palermo. Once there, we jumped on the city tour bus (the best way to see the most in the shortest amount of time). We zipped to the top of Palermo to the church in Monreal. Stunning views from the highest points of this beautiful city.

What struck me most were the tiny streets lined with people and produce and all things traditional. A step back in time. We decided to grab lunch from a bakery and sit outside to enjoy the day.

After going back into the city we rode the bus from site to site. Mr. Goodin listened to the history lesson and I took pictures from the bus. So much to see, so little time. We capped off the afternoon with a traditional Aperol spritzer (an orange liqueur with prosecco and soda water). We chatted it up with a couple from Yorkshire who were there on holiday. She was just happy to learn the bar sold wine from a tap. Welcome to Italy. Palermo was a lovely place and a nice getaway for anyone visiting Sicily. Needed more time, but had a train to catch.

Day 4: Eat and Love in Aci Trezza
Time to stay local and see the sights in our host town. There are some interesting rules of the road here in this little town outside of Catania. First come first served. Driving is not for the faint of heart...if you get there first, nose in...you win. Pedestrians have the right of way even if a car is buzzing down the road....they will stop on a dime so the key is to stay alert. However, this particular morning, we took a lovely stroll along the boardwalk with the destination of Aci Castello "the castle" in mind. A round way trip of four miles with much to see. Men with time on there hands gather for a morning chat, fishing boats that look abandoned and unique structures coming from the water (aptly named the Cylcops).

The clouds which started out coolly warmed quickly as we walked. It was a beautiful day in Aci Trezza. A quick stop for gelato and café....life is good.

It set the tone for the day in which we simply relaxed in preparation for the birthday celebration. Later that evening, we left for a local seafood dinner. Food from the ocean straight to our plate. It could not have been fresher or more delicious. Mr. Goodin was promised seafood and this little town delivered. The culminating treat was a stop into a local bakery for birthday cake and a cannoli (because I wasn't leaving without having one). We picked up a pistachio cream cake....drop mic....done. Sugar coma.

Day 5: Eat in Catania
So it was our last day in Sicily, what better to do than go into the markets of down Catania. Not sure how to describe the utterly organized chaos other than it was organized chaos. Vendors barking, hawking their goods. Fish, fruit, produce, meat, cheese, nuts....you name it. I will have one of everything please. I convinced the family that we should buy local and make dinner....I had spied some mussels that needed to come home with me. I bought scallions that were triple the size of anything I had ever seen along with a loaf of fresh bread.

After a long walk though the muck of the market, we were headed back to the car when we all saw it.....grilled artichokes being steamed on the roadside. The smell, the smoke...yes, we needed those too. After much debate about the cost, we ended up paying $5 for 7 grilled artichokes. We couldn't drive fast enough home to eat them for lunch. Ah yes, the lemons for my mussels...I would get those from the tree of the upstairs neighbor. I think it was at this point I said to Mr, Goodin, "I will miss you. Take care of the cats." I was kidding of course. Not kidding. I loved it here.

Day 6: Eat, Pray and Love in Rome
In order for us to be sure to catch our flight the following day, we got a head start by flying from Catania to Rome. That gave us about 7 hours of touring time. Again, with the aid of the city tour bus we did pretty well. We managed to make it to the Coliseum, the Circus Maximus, the Pantheon, Plaza Navronna, and the Trevi Fountain. Yes, coins were tossed (that was for the love part).

The drizzly, cold rain kept making an appearance. We dodged into a café  for respite at one point. We ordered our one and only pizza. However, the most impactful part of our day was making the decision to get to St. Peter's Basilica before it closed. We knew that if we could hop the Metro we might just make it there with minutes to spare. It is the Lenten season after all....how best to celebrate. We jumped off the Metro and walked as fast as we could. Vatican City was dark and nearly empty but the church was still open. He had never been and just to see his reaction was well worth the journey. We stopped, took a collective deep breath and realized where we were. It was all very moving. Then the sounds of the church rang, it was time to leave. We spent a total of 15 minutes in the church. Time well spent.

Day 7: Love - Home
There is no place like it. This was a memorable trip for sure. It was my third time to Italy and each time I feel a connection to my ancestral roots. Sicily was special as there was a mix of old world and new world...but old world ways were prevalent in all our interactions. There is a spark of sassy in most that you meet, but it's sassy in a charming way. I look forward to my return, sooner rather than later....Ciao! For now.

STOP! for a complete look at our trip (all 294 photos)....grab a gelato and just click on the Shutterfly link below! I hope you enjoy the virtual journey through Italy. Ciao!

Complete Shutterfly Album of Italy 2016 - Eat, Pray, Love

 

   

SnowmaGETTIN! 2016 - Vail, Colorado

So call me crazy. As I type, the northeast corridor is being pummeled and plummeted by Winter Storm Jonas and I am on a plane to Vail. Life as a pilot's wife is never boring. Yesterday, we were watching all day news reports about the impending storm and the thousands of flight cancellations. I can only be grateful he was at home at the time. As I shared with my mother who called to inquire as to his whereabouts...I told her the only threat he had at the moment was tripping over the cat as he was pouring coffee in the kitchen. Then the famous bling of the cell phone....flights coming into open time. Flights into the northeast were cancelled but MIA was business as usual. The bling led to a phone call from scheduling. He got a flight assignment to Vail, Colorado. So here I am....30,000 feet in the air and headed to snowy Colorado for a short twenty-four hour layover. I jokingly referred to this trip as SnowmaGETTIN!

A fellow crew member who rented a car generously offered us a ride and we were on our way to Beaver Creek Ski Village. He was off to ski....we were off to eat. After a short walkabout in the ski village, we stopped for a warm lunch at the Golden Eagle Inn. Now, if I can eat something that I can't eat at home, I will...today was no exception. For lunch we shared a Mountain Game Burger...made with buffalo, venison, wild boar, elk and antelope served with a side of parmesan garlic fries. It was just one of things I needed to try.  After stuffing our face, we were back out to the slopes to watch the skiers. I used to ski but thanks to a crash and burn fall in '95, I retired my skis. Now I just enjoy watching all the brave souls hit the slopes while I warm up at on outside fit pit. Sadly, I was on the lookout for celebrity chef Richard Blais (of Top Chef fame). All the tickets for the culinary weekend events were sold out but there was always a chance that I could run into him. No such luck.

I was given some insider information prior to my arrival. At 3PM everyday something special happens here at Beaver Creek....a team of chefs emerge with plates of steaming, hot and gooey chocolate chips cookies for all the skiers. Now the only way to describe this is that it was an onslaught of skiers trying to grab a morsel of homemade deliciousness from a man in a chef hat all at the same time.  Like bees to honey. They were that good. So good we went back for seconds.

Score!

Another travel tip (from the flight crew)  that I did not take advantage of this time was to keep my boarding pass. Apparently, if you show your current day boarding pass at the ticket window you can get onto the lifts for free! Who knew?! Now, remember our new friend who was skiing? This was the photo he texted from the top. I should have braved the lift! That's us...comfortably at the bottom of the hill.

                                                                                                                                                                                                            Photo courtesy of J. Anderson

Waving from the bottom of the slopes

We drove back to the hotel when the slopes closed. I headed straight to the lobby fireplace to warm my toes. Armed with a hot apple cider, I kindly plopped myself there until our dinner at the world famous Moe's BBQ. After eating our way through this town, a good nights sleep was in order.

And just like that, the clock ticks down.  Twenty four hours goes by quickly and I am already headed back to the airport for my flight home.  Beautiful, majestic blue skies, white powdered mountain tops, great food and cozy accommodations...I will be back for sure and a little longer next time. 

#GoodinsOnTheGo

Puerto Vallarta - A Journey of 67,000 Steps

Funny how a simple conversation at the kitchen table resulted in a four day trip to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico....let's just say it did. Our 2016 New Year's resolution is...WTHN? Why The Heck Not. Now, truthfully I had been there on a single girl's weekend trip back in '97 (random fact... that was the year Matt Damon won an Oscar for Good Will Hunting) and had always wished to return. What I remember was staying at a low key hotel on a marina. When my friend and I found our way by bus into town, my recollection was that it was a quaint Mexican town along a beach. Besides the Malecon (boardwalk), I remembered the beautiful Cathedral in the middle of town. Other than that, my memories were locked away in the far away parts of my brain. She and I had many fun nights coming back and forth on the local bus. That was then...a lifetime ago. I was excited to go back this time, 18 years later, with Mr. Goodin.  What I was not prepared for were all the changes however.



The trip from Miami was two legs (more than my normal "one flight" weekend rule), however I knew it would be worth it. Life on standby presented a few challenges this time, but we got there in about 11 hours from start to finish. Since we got up at 3AM, it was going to be a short day in PV for us. We were staying down by the Marina, which if you ever go is about one mile from the airport. It is the quieter, less hectic part of town but it has a charm all its own. The day we arrived, we settled in and headed straight to the pool. A little R&R to unwind from the hectic travel day.

A room with a view

That evening we took a short stroll over the Marina Vallarta for dinner and walkabout. It must have been "the night" because all the vendors were out trying to hawk their wares. Good practice for the "no, gracias" that I spent saying for four days. No, I don't need a blanket. No, I don't need more jewelry. No, I don't need a wooden carved moose...seriously. No. No. No. Gracias. I need a tan. Unlike most, I didn't come for shopping. The marina this evening was hectic. Families were out. The band was playing and people were dancing on the docks.

Smells from the restaurants and the vendors competed with each other. The restaurants were bustling and my tummy was grumbling. Everyone wants you to eat at their place making decisions hard. However, one restaurant caught my eye...Bachas. I saw a man making tableside guacamole. Now you are talking. I told Mr. Goodin he could order whatever he liked, I was happy with my "quac" and fresh chips. I should mention for the sake of full confession and disclosure that we returned a few days later for more. He had me at "Hola, quacamole senora?" Did I mention the first bowl was on the house? (though we tipped him for the show). It was that good. After a full meal, we headed back out for a walk, keeping an eye out for other eateries for later on in our trip. The Marina had grown up in my time away. The restaurants were nicer, the food was better and the service was spot on.

Marina Vallarta from Victor's Place

In my anxiousness to go into town, we started our day with breakfast at Victor's Place on the Marina....before we figured out the bus system. It was easy. Take one bus to "Centro" and the return bus to "Marina" when we wanted to come back. Now, let's talk about the busses. Think of your favorite yellow school bus, make it with plastic seats, take away the shocks, drive on cobblestone streets with a NYC taxi driver and there you have the local bus. I like to call them "bummpity bumps" because in the end, my teeth and bones rattled the whole way....but for 7.5 pesos or .50 cents one way, you can't beat it. Actually, it was kind of fun but this is truly the way the locals get around.

It took me a minute to get my bearings when the bus driver dropped us off. It had all changed so much. It was clear that modern day progress had moved in and Vieja Vallarta (Old Vallarta) was really not that old anymore. The Malecon (Boardwalk) was beautifully paved along the ocean. Waves roared and crashed so violently over the walls, some walkers by were soaked without warning. There were more shops and restaurants than I remember. What had not changed were the views of the mountains that surrounded the beaches. It is the best of both worlds.

Careful not to get too close!

A view of the mountains from the bridge

Early morning fresh catch of the day

Nothing looked familiar to me. It wasn't until we went a few streets away from the beach that the old quaint parts of Viejo Vallarta came back to me. We walked into the Romantica Zona a few streets away. I remembered a burro that had been tied up to post that last time I was here. No mas. I guess they are burro no grata now.

We spent the next couple of days floating in and out of town enjoying the sights, the art and of course the food.  I loved exploring the back streets away from the touristy parts. I felt a real sense of connectedness. The wall art and the tiled walls rivalled museum art.

Take a close look at this one for a surprise

We finally found our way to the coveted city Cathedral. There happened to be a Mass happening at the same time. Despite the language, it was familiar in words and music. I found myself humming along. Despite the tourists, the townspeople seemed less than fazed with our presence as they focused on their Sunday services. We dined at the café next door, Companadas,  as the church bells went off.

Then there was the food. Besides the crazy amount of guacamole, refried beans and salsa served with every meal that I ate (yes, it was all that good), our most memorable dinner was based on a recommendation from a couple at the pool. They told us how they took a cab into town and that the cab driver dropped them off in front of a restaurant and told them to eat there. While they said it was not fancy, it was good. End of story. We actually Yelped it and indeed it was off the beaten path...Rio Grande. We actually found it on the bus path and by all looks of it, it was a local Mexican family restaurant. We stepped in and sat down next to a lively family already in eating. After glancing at the menu, it was an easy choice. Mr. Goodin wanted a whole wood fired red snapper. I was game. This would be a culinary adventure even Mr. Bourdain would be jealous of.

What I didn't realize is that we had walked by the "wood fire oven" on the sidewalk as we came in. As soon as we realized that dinner was being prepared out in front, we quickly went to snap a few photos of the fish master. He didn't seem nearly as excited as we were. Grilled and seasoned perfectly and way more fish than we could eat. Still we managed and left only fish bones as proof. 

We wobbled out and found our way home. The townspeople were always helpful and kind as we navigated our way....especially the night when the "Marina" bus stopped running. I knew just enough Spanish and they knew enough Ingles.

What I left in Puerta Vallarta this time were memories of adventures (and 67,000 steps according to my pedometer) and the beauty of a place that grew with the times....yet left enough of the old to make me nostalgic. There is no doubt that I will return to this place....if only for the guacamole.

the end...until next time

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