Puerto Vallarta - A Journey of 67,000 Steps

Funny how a simple conversation at the kitchen table resulted in a four day trip to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico....let's just say it did. Our 2016 New Year's resolution is...WTHN? Why The Heck Not. Now, truthfully I had been there on a single girl's weekend trip back in '97 (random fact... that was the year Matt Damon won an Oscar for Good Will Hunting) and had always wished to return. What I remember was staying at a low key hotel on a marina. When my friend and I found our way by bus into town, my recollection was that it was a quaint Mexican town along a beach. Besides the Malecon (boardwalk), I remembered the beautiful Cathedral in the middle of town. Other than that, my memories were locked away in the far away parts of my brain. She and I had many fun nights coming back and forth on the local bus. That was then...a lifetime ago. I was excited to go back this time, 18 years later, with Mr. Goodin.  What I was not prepared for were all the changes however.



The trip from Miami was two legs (more than my normal "one flight" weekend rule), however I knew it would be worth it. Life on standby presented a few challenges this time, but we got there in about 11 hours from start to finish. Since we got up at 3AM, it was going to be a short day in PV for us. We were staying down by the Marina, which if you ever go is about one mile from the airport. It is the quieter, less hectic part of town but it has a charm all its own. The day we arrived, we settled in and headed straight to the pool. A little R&R to unwind from the hectic travel day.

A room with a view

That evening we took a short stroll over the Marina Vallarta for dinner and walkabout. It must have been "the night" because all the vendors were out trying to hawk their wares. Good practice for the "no, gracias" that I spent saying for four days. No, I don't need a blanket. No, I don't need more jewelry. No, I don't need a wooden carved moose...seriously. No. No. No. Gracias. I need a tan. Unlike most, I didn't come for shopping. The marina this evening was hectic. Families were out. The band was playing and people were dancing on the docks.

Smells from the restaurants and the vendors competed with each other. The restaurants were bustling and my tummy was grumbling. Everyone wants you to eat at their place making decisions hard. However, one restaurant caught my eye...Bachas. I saw a man making tableside guacamole. Now you are talking. I told Mr. Goodin he could order whatever he liked, I was happy with my "quac" and fresh chips. I should mention for the sake of full confession and disclosure that we returned a few days later for more. He had me at "Hola, quacamole senora?" Did I mention the first bowl was on the house? (though we tipped him for the show). It was that good. After a full meal, we headed back out for a walk, keeping an eye out for other eateries for later on in our trip. The Marina had grown up in my time away. The restaurants were nicer, the food was better and the service was spot on.

Marina Vallarta from Victor's Place

In my anxiousness to go into town, we started our day with breakfast at Victor's Place on the Marina....before we figured out the bus system. It was easy. Take one bus to "Centro" and the return bus to "Marina" when we wanted to come back. Now, let's talk about the busses. Think of your favorite yellow school bus, make it with plastic seats, take away the shocks, drive on cobblestone streets with a NYC taxi driver and there you have the local bus. I like to call them "bummpity bumps" because in the end, my teeth and bones rattled the whole way....but for 7.5 pesos or .50 cents one way, you can't beat it. Actually, it was kind of fun but this is truly the way the locals get around.

It took me a minute to get my bearings when the bus driver dropped us off. It had all changed so much. It was clear that modern day progress had moved in and Vieja Vallarta (Old Vallarta) was really not that old anymore. The Malecon (Boardwalk) was beautifully paved along the ocean. Waves roared and crashed so violently over the walls, some walkers by were soaked without warning. There were more shops and restaurants than I remember. What had not changed were the views of the mountains that surrounded the beaches. It is the best of both worlds.

Careful not to get too close!

A view of the mountains from the bridge

Early morning fresh catch of the day

Nothing looked familiar to me. It wasn't until we went a few streets away from the beach that the old quaint parts of Viejo Vallarta came back to me. We walked into the Romantica Zona a few streets away. I remembered a burro that had been tied up to post that last time I was here. No mas. I guess they are burro no grata now.

We spent the next couple of days floating in and out of town enjoying the sights, the art and of course the food.  I loved exploring the back streets away from the touristy parts. I felt a real sense of connectedness. The wall art and the tiled walls rivalled museum art.

Take a close look at this one for a surprise

We finally found our way to the coveted city Cathedral. There happened to be a Mass happening at the same time. Despite the language, it was familiar in words and music. I found myself humming along. Despite the tourists, the townspeople seemed less than fazed with our presence as they focused on their Sunday services. We dined at the café next door, Companadas,  as the church bells went off.

Then there was the food. Besides the crazy amount of guacamole, refried beans and salsa served with every meal that I ate (yes, it was all that good), our most memorable dinner was based on a recommendation from a couple at the pool. They told us how they took a cab into town and that the cab driver dropped them off in front of a restaurant and told them to eat there. While they said it was not fancy, it was good. End of story. We actually Yelped it and indeed it was off the beaten path...Rio Grande. We actually found it on the bus path and by all looks of it, it was a local Mexican family restaurant. We stepped in and sat down next to a lively family already in eating. After glancing at the menu, it was an easy choice. Mr. Goodin wanted a whole wood fired red snapper. I was game. This would be a culinary adventure even Mr. Bourdain would be jealous of.

What I didn't realize is that we had walked by the "wood fire oven" on the sidewalk as we came in. As soon as we realized that dinner was being prepared out in front, we quickly went to snap a few photos of the fish master. He didn't seem nearly as excited as we were. Grilled and seasoned perfectly and way more fish than we could eat. Still we managed and left only fish bones as proof. 

We wobbled out and found our way home. The townspeople were always helpful and kind as we navigated our way....especially the night when the "Marina" bus stopped running. I knew just enough Spanish and they knew enough Ingles.

What I left in Puerta Vallarta this time were memories of adventures (and 67,000 steps according to my pedometer) and the beauty of a place that grew with the times....yet left enough of the old to make me nostalgic. There is no doubt that I will return to this place....if only for the guacamole.

the end...until next time

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